Foodways are generally defined as the eating habits and culinary practices of a people, region or historical period. It also refers to the intersection of food in culture, tradition and history.
As a discipline, foodways examine the role of food and food-related behavior in cultural groups, and the ways in which food knowledge is transferred within, and varies between different societies.
Currently, we are in the midst of a major food revolution in the United States as there has been a pronounced shift in Americans’ eating habits over the past twenty years, with far-reaching implications for how food is created, prepared and consumed.1
Consequently, the rise of social media platforms has given way to a generation of food influencers who are sharing their dietary practices and ideologies with the rest of the world.
A food influencer is a content creator who posts recipes, how-to’s, diet tips and more on social media. Sometimes food influencers are professional chefs or work in the food industry in some capacity, but are also commonly self-taught food enthusiasts.2
From veganism to vegetarianism, pescatarianism and even carnivorism, food influencers are espousing and, to a degree, evangelizing the benefits of their diet with the rest of the world.
According to Meltwater, an online media intelligence software, nearly half of online food influencers, 43%, are based in the United States, with their followers being a mix of Gen-Z and younger millennials (25-34 years old).3
And, though vegans and vegetarians represent a small fraction in the overall U.S. population, they are more common among younger generations, with some 12% of adults ages 18-49 identifying as mostly vegan or vegetarian, compared to just 5% of adults 50+.4 However, these trends in dietary restrictions aren’t new.
Throughout U.S. history, the shift, or change, in the human diet has always coincided with some sort of religious or spiritual revival. In 1850, the inventor of graham crackers, Rev. Sylvester Graham, co-founded the American Vegetarian Society.
The meeting was called by William Metcalfe who led a migration of forty members of the Bible Christian Church from England to Philadelphia in 1817, all abstainers from flesh foods.5
I was recently working an event as a photographer where I overheard an African-American elder discussing his eating practices, noting that “back in the day, due to financial reasons, there were only three ways for Black folks to season their food: sugar, salt and hot sauce.”
This prompted me to think about the evolution of said food practices in historically marginalized communities, particularly African-Americans, who were denied access to other foodways, either due to financial constraints or lack of knowledge.
In a 2016 report published by the Pew Research Center, African-Americans are purportedly the fastest growing vegan and vegetarian demographic in the U.S., with 8% adherence compared to just 3% of the general population.6
It’s worth noting that during the darker parts of U.S. history, when African-Americans were excluded from participating in more mainstream eating practices, the leafy greens and legumes consumed were sufficient in nourishing Black communities.
This eating pattern changed considerably with the rise of fast-food chains, subsequently leading to causes adjacent to the Civil Rights Movement of the 1960s, which advocated for a meat-free lifestyle.
In short, veganism and vegetarianism isn’t totally new to African-Americans. In fact, the founding of Oakwood University by Black Seventh-Day Adventists in the 1890s also advocated for a vegetarian lifestyle.
In an interview published online with health professional and vegan advocate Tracy McQuirter, she states that “Black women are the current face of veganism in this country despite experiencing the worst health outcomes.”7
The rise of renowned food blogger Tabitha Brown, whose messaging includes spiritual and religious undertones, is a testament to this sentiment. Brown, who rose to fame after documenting her health journey and transition to veganism online, is now the creator behind a slew of eponymous brands, from food products to hair care.
Only time will tell how current trends in African-American dietary practices will fare, but its evolution is worth noting. Unlike past waves and movements, there is no centralized figure.
Instead, communities of color are collectively finding inspiration online. Though it may be subconscious, how one chooses to nourish themselves is political, and how these choices influence and impact the wider communities they belong to is also worth noting.
What is lost or birthed in the refashioning of African-American foodways? Do these trends hold the same integrity as foodways of the past? For example, do fried mushrooms imitating fried chicken still retain its inherent cultural integrity [or authenticity], with respect to soul food, if what is being prepared and consumed isn’t chicken?
As a historian, I see possibilities in the reimagining of African-American food culture that is not only [finally] inclusive of all dietary types, but is indicative of the evolution of our foodways, which have always been inundated with creativity and innovation.
anyways, I hope this gives you something to think about on your food journey.
love & madness,
References:
- Pew Research Center, December, 2016, “The New Food Fights: U.S. Public Divides Over Food Science” p.3 ↩︎
- Scott, Samantha. “40+ Global Food Influencers to Inspire You.” Meltwater, February 28, 2024. https://www.meltwater.com/en/blog/food-influencers. ↩︎
- ibid. ↩︎
- Pew Research Center, December, 2016, “The New Food Fights: U.S. Public Divides Over Food Science” p. 26. ↩︎
- “The American Vegetarian Society.” International Vegetarian Union – History of vegetarianism – American vegetarian society. Accessed June 21, 2024. https://www.ivu.org/history/societies/americanvs.html
↩︎ - Pew Research Center, December, 2016, “The New Food Fights: U.S. Public Divides Over Food Science”.
↩︎ - Uwumarogie, Victoria. “Black Americans Are Going Vegan at a Higher Rate than Anyone Else. Here’s Why and How You Can Do It Too.” Essence, May 16, 2023. https://www.essence.com/lifestyle/black-americans-vegan/. ↩︎
Bojepsÿ 
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